Personal Journal

Pastor Mike VerWay
Israel 2004

Monday, December 29, 2003

The day has arrived. I am headed to Israel for 11 days of study of the biblical lands, places and culture of the Jewish and Christian faiths. Yesterday in our Young Families class, one of our men asked me what place I was most looking forward to seeing. Recently, that answer has been Calvary. The thought of being at the place where the Lord gave Himself for me is overwhelming.

TRAVEL

We left our home for the airport at 4:30 AM. Though my flight for Tel Aviv is not scheduled to leave until 10:50 PM, I chose to leave early and spend the day in New York City. What a gorgeous day it was. The temperature was in the mid-50’s with bright sunshine.

NEW YORK CITY

After arriving at the Newark airport, I took the train into NYC’s Penn Station. From here the subway was my means of transportation throughout Manhattan. I immediately went to Lower Manhattan to catch a ride on the Staten Island Ferry. The ferry shuttles people back and forth to Staten Island. The ride gives a great view of New York Harbor, the Manhattan skyline, the boat and sky traffic, and, of course, the Statue of Liberty.

One interesting sight was the Coast Guard patrol that followed the ferry. They stayed within sight of the crewman from boarding to unloading. When I left the ferry, I walked along the harbor and past a fire station that lost a significant number of men in the 9/11 attack.

After a lousy Philly sandwich along the pier beneath the Brooklyn Bridge, I walked along Wall Street and took the subway to the site of Ground Zero. There was little left from the 9/11 attacks. One stairwell stands out amidst the reconstruction. It is one that was damaged but remains standing. I am sure people escaped down these steps.

Across from the sight is the St. Paul’s chapel. It is the oldest standing, continual use building on Manhattan Island, dating back to 1766. It was not damaged in the attack and claims to have provided much assistance to the community. I also visited St. Peter’s Cathedral on Church Street. It was not anything special, a typical Catholic church.

I hopped back on the subway and went to Times Square. It was nearly dark when I got there. The lights and sounds were as advertised. There were people everywhere. To say it was crowded is a huge understatement. I ate at Tad’s Steakhouse, nothing special, but it was steak.

Around 7:45 pm I caught the train back to the Newark Airport and met the group for Continental Flight 90, non-stop to Tel Aviv departing at 10:50 PM.

Tuesday, December 30, 2003

TRAVEL

The flight was less than enjoyable. We hit some major turbulence somewhere over the North Atlantic. I just got a full can of pop and a cup of ice. I couldn’t even drink it. Every time I put it to my mouth, it was as if the pilot purposefully hit a pocket of air just to see me spill my pop all over myself.

Normally I enjoy flying very much, no so this time. Maybe it had something to do with the 10 miles I walked in New York City, but my knees and my hips were very sore. Security was not all that difficult, certainly much less than I thought it would be. Leaving the US, we were ID’d by fingerprints and given a card that held the digital image of our prints. When we got to the gate, we had to deliver the card to the security personnel. From there, we were wanded and patted down. Upon arriving in Israel, I expected more of the same, only to a much greater degree. To my surprise, I only displayed my passport and my tourist visa, no questions, no customs, and no hassles.

OUR GUIDE

We met our tour guide Rimon, a Roman Catholic university instruction and tour guide. He is very knowledgeable of his country and has a more than adequate knowledge of his Bible. On the way from Tel Aviv to our Jerusalem lodging, he teased us with bits and pieces of information ranging from the Lord’s talk on the Road to Emmaus to the movement of the Ark of the Covenant, the town of Lydia and Joppa and more. I anticipate that he will make the trip especially educational.

LODGING

Our lodging in Jerusalem is comfortable. The beds are dormitory style with bunk beds in nearly all the rooms. Our meal tonight consisted of chicken steaks, scalloped potatoes, baby carrots, pita and rye bread and tossed salad. It tasted great after a long day’s and night’s travel.

There is one slight potential for problem. We were told beforehand that our water would be fine to drink. I brushed my teeth with it only to have announced to our group that that water is not safe to drink and that we should use bottled water. We’ll see what happens.

Tomorrow is our first full day. I’m hoping for a good night’s rest. I think I’ll take a little something to help make the night better.

Wednesday, December 31, 2003

The morning began with a much-needed hot shower followed by cereal, yogurt, bread, and a banana.

TO BETHANY

As we drove to Bethany, we traveled through an area of Hasidic Jews. Rimon told us these families are an extreme Jewish sect. The men do not work but are supported by the Israeli government. The married women shave their heads to prevent them from engaging in adultery. They wear wigs to cover their heads. They do not mix with Gentiles in any way as children or adults. These are not native Palestinians, but those that moved here from Eastern Europe and the Middle East.

MOUNT OF OLIVES

On the way to Bethany, we drove through the Mount of Olives via a tunnel. Mount Scopus is to the east of the Mount of Olives. The Mount of Olives is a multiple peak area reaching a height of 2400’. The Mount of Olives and Bethany may be the same in some portions of biblical literature because of their proximity to one another.

The terrain along the backside of the Mount of Olives and toward Bethany is very rocky. Everywhere one looks he sees rocks of all shapes and sizes. At the base of the slope is the biblical road to Jericho. Its switchback character provides multiple places for thieves to hide before attempting a robbery.

Two interesting sights while we looked at the Jericho Road were a mustard seed with some fruit on it and a herd of sheep following a shepherd along the slope. The mustard seed is incredibly small. The sheep were following the shepherd. Our guide noted that only in Israel do the shepherd lead their sheep. In other places, they drive the sheep from behind or the side. He reminded us, “My sheep hear my voice and follow me.”

The back or east side of the Mount of Olives changes dramatically from the front or western side. The front receives 600 mm of rainfall yearly making for a green landscape. The backside receives 60 mm of rainfall each year. The difference is dramatic. The backside begins the Judean wilderness and is absolutely barren.

BETHANY

Bethany is the home of Lazarus’ tomb and is approximately a 3-kilometer walk from the Temple. Lazarus was a very wealthy man who regularly housed and entertained the disciples of Jesus. His home was large and able to accommodate many guests. He earned his income from the sale of the produce of his olive press. In normal business transaction, farmers kept 2/3 of the pressed oil, and the press kept 1/3.

Lazarus’ tomb requires a significant walk down many stairs to a large interior room. From here, one crawls through a small opening into the burial vault. The stone may have been one that was rolled in front or one that lay on top. The Lord would have stood in the large room and called to Lazarus.

The authenticity of the sight is not in question by serious scholars. The sight of such a miracle would be well known to the locals and passed along faithfully to their descendants. An additional fact that lends authenticity is the building of pagan temples on sacred sites. The thinking of the Roman government is that they would desecrate the sites and keep the pilgrims away. While this may have happened, it also preserved the locations of the various places they were trying to destroy.

The view from the top of the Mount of Olives takes place in a tower on the grounds of a hospital and sight of a German Lutheran Church. After 225 steps to the top, one gains a panoramic view of the city of Jerusalem, the Judean wilderness and the hills to the south. Also seen is the hill on which Solomon built pagan temples for his Egyptian wives.

BETHPAGE

Bethpage is only a ten-minute-walk from Lazarus’ tomb, but requires a lengthy drive because of the wall the separates Bethany and Bethpage. The Israeli government, for “security reasons,” built the wall, though our Palestinian guide questions that motive, and subscribes the motive of seeking to humiliate the Palestinian people.

From Bethpage the Lord rides into the city of Jericho on a donkey. He does not ride a horse as a victor in battle would, but a donkey as the King of Peace. We saw numerous Palm Trees in the area. There is, of course, a Catholic church on the site.

CITY OF DAVID & THE KIDRON VALLEY

The Kidron Valley divides the Mount of Olives from the slopes of the city of Jerusalem. The City of David sits farther south and farther down the slope than the current city. His city is built into the hillside west of the Kidron Valley. Solomon’s temple would rise higher up the slope.

Here along the hills are ruins from the time of Hezekiah, Warren’s shaft, and the Hezekiah tunnel and Pool of Shalom. The Warren shaft was discovered by a British officer of that name, and was the entry point for Joab’s invasion of the city of Jerusalem, which was held by the Jebusites.

GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE

The night of his betrayal and following “The Last Supper,” the Lord and the disciples left the upper room within the city and walked toward the Mount of Olives. On the way, they stopped at the grotto (cave) in the Garden of Gethsemane. Here the Lord took Peter, James, and John to another spot higher up the slope to pray with him. Once there, he left them to go pray by himself. Shortly thereafter, Judas came with those who were to arrest the Lord following Judas’ betrayal.

Judas, feeling whatever emotion, took his own life in the area south of David’s city, an area called the “Bad Hill.” A gorge runs up the slope, and he may have killed himself there.

When our Lord was betrayed in the garden, soldiers lead him to the temple, and he entered via the steps on the south. From here, they lead him to Caiaphas’ home, which is southwest (maybe ½ mile) of the Temple. Caiaphas sends him to Herod and Pilate who are in the Antonio Fortress on the north side of the Temple Mount. When the Lord is sentenced to death, he is taken outside the city to the highest point and crucified for all Jerusalem to see. The Holy Sepulcher may mark the spot of the crucifixion.

The Garden of Gethsemane is outside the city walls, across the Kidron Valley and looks back to the west at the East Gate. To this day it contains Olive trees that, without question, are descendents of the trees at the time of Christ. That is, their root system is from our Lord’s day. There is in the garden at least one tree that is 2000 years old.

Thursday, January 1, 2004

As the day before, we woke to beautiful bright sunshine and warm temperatures. It is hard to imagine weather more conducive to outdoor activity. It is nothing short of fabulous.

Jerusalem Model

Our day began at the Jerusalem Motel’s scale model of the city of Jerusalem at the time of the second temple. At 1:50, the model is sufficiently large enough to give an overview of the city, providing both spatial dynamics along with possible or probable locations and appearance.

The model should not be considered to be entirely accurate. The architect / designer lacked information for the entire city. For example, the north and west walls are not likely in their second temple locations, or the hippodrome, located near the temple is out of place because of its carnal activities which would never be so closely situated to the spiritual locale.

The temple model showcases the work of Herod the Great. Its lifespan is 20 B.C. – A.D. 70 and covers 32 acres from north to south. On to the Old City…

Old City

We entered the Old City from the south at the Dung Gate. Prior to entering, we learned the different rock characteristics that identify stones from various eras of history. The large foundation stones are Herodian, while stones on top are Byzantine and then Crusader.

The stairs on the south wall are important for many reasons including the fact that our Lord, Peter, and other apostles preached on these very steps. This would have been the location of Peter’s Day of Pentecost message. Those 3000 who were baptized would have experienced this in the ritual baths that are numerous along the south wall.

A ritual bath involved descending the stairs on the right, immersing one’s self in the water, and ascending on the opposite side. Mary would have used these baths following her purification after the birth of the Lord. The Jewish practice of ritual cleansing may lend credence to immersion as the methodology in the NT. When those 3000 were baptized, it is logical to assume that they would follow the same pattern to which they were accustomed prior to their conversions to Jesus Christ.

Upon entering the Old City, we immediately visited the archeological park. Here is a new museum explaining the excavated temple site, the process for excavation, and some artifacts from the era.

The park could capture one’s attention for the entire day. The highlight of the park is the southwest corner of the temple wall. Here is Robinson’s arch, the supporting point for the massive stairwell that would have granted entrance to the temple mount from the south. Along the street and across from the west wall are the remains of vendor’s shops. They were part of the stairwell, formed underneath the stairs.

An exciting discovery is the temple pinnacle. The fact of its authenticity is not in question as it bears an inscription that identifies it. From the pinnacle the priest would blow the shofar calling people to worship. Here the Lord stood and viewed the city of Jerusalem when being tempted by Satan.

Jewish Quarter

We walked through the Jewish Quarter. The entrance to the Temple Mount is near the Wailing Wall and access to anyone beside Muslims is denied. We had lunch at small café featuring Falafel, a pita stuffed with peppers, sauces, and fried chickpeas, and other vegetables.

In the Jewish Quarter is a large excavation below the current street surface. It is the excavated home of a very wealthy family. It measures more than 600 square meters, includes multiple levels, beautiful mosaics, and large rooms. Because of its proximity to the temple, it likely belonged to a priest’s family. Interestingly, there are elements within the home that deny its heritage and Levitical law, including a Roman bath and toilet.

We viewed the alleged but improbable sites of the David’s Tomb and the Upper Room. Neither place is possible for their claims to fame.

Bethlehem

We left the Old City headed to the village of Bethlehem. The terrain between Jerusalem and Bethlehem is rugged and requires climbs back up the hills after leaving the Valley of Henna. To get to Bethlehem we had to pass through an Israeli checkpoint. The guard said to us, “On behalf of Yassar Arafat, welcome to Bethlehem.” Bethlehem is only a short drive of a few miles to Jerusalem.

Kando’s store

Our visit to the Kando family store allowed for an unusual opportunity to act as if we were antiquities dealers. The store, located in Bethlehem, houses the collections of the senior Kando. He was famous for his acquiring of the Dead Sea Scrolls from Bedouin shepherds. In his store is an original clay pot in which portions of the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. It has an estimated value of 15 million dollars.

I made three purchases in the store including a first century oil lamp, a first century tear bottle. The price for both items was $450. The grandson of the senior Kando, Shilbey, sold me the items and included a very nice widow’s mite as a gift to me.

Church of the Nativity

Our guide expressed great confidence in the location for the birth of the Lord. We entered the church through a small door whose height had been restricted through the years to prevent invading forces from riding into the building on horseback.

Beneath the main floor are the caves of the first century. Somewhere in here Mary and Joseph came to reside with Bethlehem family members. At the time of delivery, she and other ladies of the house moved to the stable area, away from the men and apart from the family, to give birth to Jesus.

In the fourth century, Jerome did his work in these caves. Between his study and the birth site is a small door allowing him easy access. His burial vault is here.

Shepherd’s cave and fields

The shepherds’ fields seem to be just outside Bethlehem proper. They slope down toward the valley floor. Here the angel appeared to them making the announcement of Christ’s birth. Their coming to the birthplace would require very little time.

On the way out of the church I met a cute little twelve-year-old girl named Nuri. She and I took a picture together and I promised to send it to her.

Bedouin dinner

We ate a delicious meal at a restaurant imitating a Bedouin tent. Grilled chicken and lamb highlighted the main course, preceded by an appetizer of pita bread and numerous salads and spreads.

Checkpoint wait.

Leaving Bethlehem we waited for 90 minutes to pass the checkpoint back into Jerusalem. Just one year ago, Bethlehem was the site of intense fighting and gunfire between the Israeli army and Palestinian forces. The checkpoint is a necessary way of life. It irritates many Palestinians, including our tour guide, who finds it a means of humiliation and not a method for security.

Friday, January 2, 2004

We awoke again to bright sunshine and pleasant temperatures. This turned out to be a grueling day spent on the road as we headed north to Galilee. While the points along the way were exciting and sometimes fascinating, the trip drained me and the other men.

Our first stop was the biblical city of Emmaus, a town in hilly county approximately 30 kilometers from the city of Jerusalem. While here Rimon instructed us on the “locusts” eaten by John the Baptist. He pointed us to a tree whose fruit is dark and has a similar taste to chocolate. He said this was the food of John the Baptist, not the insect.

I met here a young French priest who is in Jerusalem to study Hebrew. My new friend, Ed, gave him a gospel tract about the life of John Wesley.

The Tel Gazer is nearby and overlooks the Valley of Aijalon that runs from Emmaus to the Mediterranean coast.

Caesarea Maritama

A fabulous site along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea is the biblical Caesarea Maritama, located north of the modern Tel Aviv and the ancient Joppa. This was the site of the first Gentile convert to Christianity, as well as the site of Paul’s imprisonment following his return to Jerusalem at the end of the third missionary journey.

Herod the Great constructed Caesarea as a seaside play place. The construction was vast and includes, of course, his palace and also an acoustically amazing theatre, a large hippodrome, and the most significant achievement, an artificial harbor.

The harbor was a business move allowing the sale and trade of frankincense without having to go to the port of Joppa. Near it stood a 30-meter statue of Caesar Augustus for whom the city was named.

The Jewish revolt against Rome in AD 66 began here in Caesarea Maritama.

An encouraging find here is the Pilate Stone, a rock whose inscription bears the name of the Roman governor Pontius Pilate (AD 26 – 36). This stone is significant because it is the only extra biblical source that testifies to the existence and rule of Pontius Pilate.

Seeing the site makes it easy to see how Pontius Pilate could act toward the Lord as he did. It is not possible in modern day America to compare the social status and luxury of Pontius Pilate to the people around him. For example, while I do not have a fraction of the wealth of Bill Gates, I have an air conditioned home like Bill Gates. I may not have a private jet, but I have access to air transportation. I may not have a personal physician, but I have access to the best health care in the world. The examples go on.

The people of the first century could not dream of the life of Pontius Pilate, and he could not imagine living the life of a common Palestinian. Therefore, he will do whatever he has to do to maintain his position, including condemning a man guilty of nothing if this is what the people want.

Mt. Carmel

The view from Mt. Carmel is wonderful. From here, I can see the Mediterranean Sea to the West and the Jezreel Valley to the east. Of course, this is the site of Elijah’s battle with the prophets of Baal. There are no archeological finds here. The best reason to come here is the view.

On the way down the slope, we stopped at a small roadside café and had another falafel. Yesterday’s was enough to give the experience, but you eat what’s put before you.

Nazareth

The Church of the Annunciation and the Church of St. Joseph mark the traditional spot of the home of Mary. Beneath the Annunciation church are a series of excavated caves showing the lifestyle of the people of the region. The curator told us of a living system in the caves that brought the animals through the living quarters to the back part of the cave. Our group was suspicious of his explanation, thinking a more likely system was a home built on top of the caves. The family lived in this section, and the animals and storage kept in the caves below. There is a small museum that displays artifacts found in the dig.

Nazareth sits atop a hill. A walk down the Valley of Dove and past Mount Arbel takes you to the Sea of Galilee and the region of Capernaum.

We arrived at our hotel on the water of the north shore of the Sea of Galilee. We enjoyed a good meal of beef, chicken, and fish.

Saturday, January 3, 2004

Galilee

Like the previous mornings, we awoke to bright sunshine and warm temperatures. After a buffet breakfast that included cheeses, cereal, eggs, raw fish and fruit, we set out for the Galilee countryside. The Valley of Dove gives those in the hill cities of Cana, Nazareth and other places the easiest access to the region. Here the Lord would have met the disciple called Simon the Zealot. The Zealots occupied the many caves that pit the hillside.

As we drove away from the Sea of Galilee, we saw the fertile areas of the region. The city of Nain where the Lord raised the widow’s son is due south of Nazareth and within easy view.

Megiddo

The ancient fortress of Megiddo controls the most important trade route in the region. The road that runs from north to south connects the merchants from Africa to Europe and to the rest of the Middle East. Because of its strategic importance, Megiddo has been the site of numerous battles resulting in its destruction and rebuilding at least 25 times.

Megiddo’s prominence came under the reign of King Ahab. He built extensive water works, a grain silo, and shafts for water retrieval.

Megiddo is the site of the Battle of Armageddon, prophesized in the book of Revelation. Megiddo overlooks the Jezreel Valley.

Driving toward the Jordan River we saw Mt. Tabor and gained an understanding of the proximity of the cities of Nazareth, Cana, and Nain to one another. This is very helpful in understanding the Lord’s ministry in this region of the country.

Jordan River

We arrived at a site constructed on the Jordan River that seems primarily to be for the use of tourists and pilgrims. Here people can wade into the water for any number of reasons. Our guide asked if any of our men needed and wanted to be baptized in the Jordan River. Many people travel here for the single purpose of being baptized in the Jordan River. While we were there a small group of people gathered to hold a baptismal service. As we gathered around to watch the event, they asked us to leave, noting that it was a private time for them. Of course, to us this made little sense, since we view baptism to be a public declaration of one’s faith in Christ. Nevertheless, we honored their request and left.

Before leaving, we ate at the snack bar located on the premises, a simple sandwich, and no falafel. Thank you, Lord.

Sea of Galilee

We arrived at the Sea of Galilee having passed through the Valley of Dove and near Mount Arbel. We boarded a small boat at the Tiberius docks for a cruise on the lake. Like every other place we have been, we enjoyed the boat ride by ourselves with no other passengers on board.

Though the skies were slightly overcast, both the east and west shorelines were easily visible. The ride was smooth and the crew friendly. One crewmember demonstrated a cast net. We stopped at a midway point and read Luke 5. It was a nice experience to be out on the water.

Because of the lake’s shallow depths and its wall of mountains surrounding it, the winds can easily cause large waves. One crewman told me that it is not uncommon even today to lose boats because of the severity of the storms. He likened them to storms on the Great Lakes.

The end of the trip brought us to a dock near our hotel. Here we visited a fascinating museum holding one primary artifact, a preserved first century boat. Two local men who thought themselves amateur archeologists discovered it. The ten-year process to remove the boat from the lake bottom into its climate-controlled surroundings is fascinating. Was this a boat like the one the disciples used? Was this a boat like the one in which our Lord would have ridden?

Capernaum

This was one of my most anticipated stops on our tour. Here is what is believed to be the home of Simon Peter. While an important site, far more important to me is the synagogue at Capernaum. There is no question that this is where our Lord gave the Bread of Life sermon from John 6. It is beyond my ability to put into the words the emotions that I had of being in the very place where Jesus preached. We read the John 6 text before departing. As a side note, a well-preserved oil press is also on site.

Chorazin

Located only a short distance away from Capernaum is Chorazin (Luke 10). Earthquakes have ruined the city leaving sparse ruins. Rimon showed us a floor from an ancient home. The floor was not a smooth, one-piece surface, but rather a collection of stones whose joints could easily hide an object. He then told us to remember the story of the woman with the lost coin and how difficult it would be to find a coin on this kind of floor.

He we saw a Christo tree. Its thorns are very sharp and approximately ¾ of an inch long. This may be the kind of thorn used in the crown of thorns.

Tagbha

We continued to drive on the north shore of the Sea of Galilee arriving at the town of Tagbha. Here the Lord had the people sit down and he performed the miracle of the feeding of the 5000.

Mount of Beatitudes

Our final stop for the day was at the traditional site of the Sermon on the Mount. It offers beautiful views of the lake. It was getting close to sunset when we arrived making for all the more beautiful views.

Visit with Musa Abu Ali

Because it was still early in the evening, we walked the streets of the modern city of Tiberius. While the other guys walked, I went to the River Jordan hotel to try to make contact with one of our missionaries. Musa Abu Ali and his family are native Palestinians. They were taking a short vacation in Tiberius at the River Jordan hotel at the same time our group toured the area. What happened next was of the Lord.

A little more background information is needed. Prior to our trip, I contacted Musa informing him of my coming to Israel. Upon arrival in Jerusalem, I called Musa to see if we could get together. Because of the New Year holiday, he had numerous church events going on and was not going to be able to visit with me while I was in Jerusalem. The more that we talked I almost got the sense that he was not interested in seeing me. He wanted me to drive to some location so that we could meet. I had no car and no knowledge of Jerusalem. I thought I had come 6,000 miles and was now within a few miles of our missionary. The least he could do was make time for me. We finished our conversation, and I thought a meeting was out of the question.

I walked to the hotel in hopes of meeting Musa. He was not available, so I left a note for him at the front desk. Our group met at the parking lot and was headed back to our hotel. Rimon found out that I was looking for someone. When I told him the name, he responded that he knew Musa. I had learned that Rimon was a very resourceful and well connected man, but I found it hard to believe that he knew our missionary. Rimon told me that he and Musa grew up together and attended the same school. Needless to say, I was surprised.

After dinner, Rimon asked me for Musa’s cell phone number. Within a few minutes, Rimon was talking to Musa and made plans to take me to meet the Abu Ali’s. Rimon and I drove back to the River Jordan hotel. This is where the Lord’s plan began to open to my mind. Rimon is a practicing catholic. He is a very religious man, but we do not believe that he knows the Lord. We talked at length about his family, his life, his future, and his relationship with God.

When we arrived at the hotel, Musa and his family met us. For Rimon it was being together with an old friend. Rimon remained with us during the entire conversation. I asked Musa to tell me about himself. He told me of his upbringing and how he came to know Christ at a church meeting at which Ed Nelson was preaching. He was saved at that meeting. In attendance with him that night was Rimon’s older brother. Rimon listened to Musa give his testimony of faith in Jesus Christ. I firmly believe the Lord was involved in this meeting. On the trip home, Rimon and I talked further and prayed together before getting out of the van.

Since my arrival back in the States, I have asked Musa to contact Rimon about attending a Bible study he leads in Bethlehem. I have also encouraged Rimon to attend. This was a wonderful experience of God working out details that made no sense to me, but complete sense to Him.

Sunday, January 4, 2004

Golan Heights

After a good night’s rest, we began what would be a big touring day across the northern region of the country. A fairly clear morning with only a little haze made the view from the Golan Heights enjoyable. The heights are the mountain range on the east side of the lake. Fierce battles with the Syrian army took place here. Remains of military vehicles and posts dot the landscape. Warning signs caution people from entering areas that may still contain landmines. From this area north to the Syrian and Lebanese borders is where we saw the most military activity.

The city Kursi is part of the Golan Heights and the traditional site of the place where the Lord ordered the demons into the pigs.

From a vantage point on the Golan Heights, we could see the outline of the entire Sea of Galilee.

Mt. Hermon

Continuing to drive north, the peaks of Mount Hermon dominate the skyline. The borders between Israel, Syria, and Lebanon meet on Hermon’s ridges. The peaks were snow covered and offered a different view than we had seen any place in the country. We stopped at a wayside for a few moments to look into the country of Syria. Also at the stop were Israel soldiers training in the use of reading maps of the region.

Nimrod’s Castle

Though having no biblical significance, we stopped briefly at Nimrod’s castle. Like Megiddo in the west, the fortress provided control over the northern trade route. Our time here was far too short for boys who wanted to explore and take in the view. Large groups of conies made the rocks of Nimrod’s castle their home.

Caesarea Philippi

Located 70 kilometers from Capernaum, many scholars believe this is the place where the Lord took the disciples in preparation for the entrance to Jerusalem that would lead to his death (Matthew 16). Located at the base of Mount Hermon, the Banias Springs flow through the region. This is the second largest water source for the Jordan River.

Visible here are the remnants from the Temple of Pan. Rimon rejected the idea that the Lord would bring the disciples here because of its pagan worship. Nevertheless, we held our Sunday worship service here. I was privileged to lead the singing and Dr. Reimers preached to us from the Matthew 16. It was a great time together.

Numerous trails wind through the preserve. We followed one that runs near the stream exiting near the Crusader city.

Dan

Dan is the northern border of the country of Israel. It was here that Abraham came to recover Lot. The Dan Spring is the largest feeder of water to the Jordan River. This is also the ancient city of Laish (Judges 18). The most impressive discovery here is the ancient gate dating back to the 18^th century B.C. The brick structure remains incredibly well preserved.

Also here is the gate to city during the Israelite period. Here is a vivid illustration of the political power on display at the gate. Here the city rulers sat and worked the power of their positions. This is likely the idea when the Lord speaks of the gates of hell not prevailing against the church (Matthew 16).

The final impressive discovery is the “high place” for pagan worship.

We returned to our hotel for our final night in Galilee.

Monday, January 5, 2004

Today we leave the region of Galilee and begin the trip south toward the condominium in Jerusalem. Our day will begin in Zippori and end in Jericho.

Zippori

This ancient Roman city of Galilee is west of the cities of Nazareth, Cana and Nain and offers a good view of those cities. The ruins show a large market street, mosaics, Roman roads with chariot grooves, and an impressive theatre. The presence of the theatre prompted an interesting discussion among us about the Lord’s involvement in such activities and the silence of the New Testament on these particular venues.

Here we saw the second kind of thorn that may have been used by the Romans in the crown. They are from the pomegranate tree.

Gideon’s Spring

Located in the Ma’ayan Harod National Park is the spring from which Gideon’s men drank (Judges 7:1). To the near north is Mt. Moreh where the Midianite armies staged for battle. Many of the men imitated the practice of Gideon’s men drinking from the stream.

This is also the plain of Gilboa where Saul fought with the Philistines.

Bet She’ an

Apart from Masada, Bet She’ is the most impressive archeological dig. It is a huge site covering nearly 400 acres. Its history dates to the Late Canaanite period (16^th – 12^th centuries B.C.). When the Romans conquered the city, they made it one of the ten cities of the Decapolis, thus making it the most important city in northern Israel. With that in mind, it is interesting that little to no attention is given to the city in the New Testament.

When the Philistines killed Saul’s sons, the Philistines took the bodies to this city. Here David’s men came and recovered the bodies (1 Samuel 31).

The city lies in the Valley of Harrod (Kidron Valley) and is the best route for travel from the east toward the Mediterranean Sea.

Archeologists continue to excavate and restore the site. They have rebuilt several streets with impressive colonnades and have revealed the ancient street floors.

The largest theatre in Israel dating from the 1^st century A.D. is here in Bet She’ an. At 7,000 people, it is impressive to behold. Like the other theatres in the region, the acoustics make every seat a great seat. Two of our guys sang a gospel song as we listened in.

We ate lunch here before heading south. This is a fabulous site with wonderful views and history. I wish we had more time to explore it.

Jordan Valley

We drove to Jericho through the Jordan Valley and the occupied territories of the West Bank. We saw fences that made movement difficult for the people that live here. It was interesting to see again Shepherds leading their sheep, not from behind as if they were driving the sheep, but in front so that the sheep could follow them.

Jericho

Because Jericho is a Palestinian controlled town, entrance in and out of the city is highly regulated. We approached the town from the north but could not enter because the roads to the city from this direction have been closed by the IDF (Israeli Defense Force). We drove around the city and came in from the south. The topographics have changed dramatically from futile farmlands in the north to desert in the south.

Jericho is the oldest town or settlement in the world. It is an oasis in a desert land. Its spring next to the ancient city gates provides abundant water to the present day. Palm trees grow abundantly in this town.

The ancient city is very small compared to what one might expect. The tel covers an area only eight acres. Part of the ruins shows ancient mud brick walls. These may have been similar to those that fell in Joshua’s day.

Like every other place we have been, Jericho was nearly desolate. We had the entire site to ourselves. We were told that normally 40-50 buses would be in the parking lot. Our van was the only tourist vehicle in sight.

While on the site, we experienced what many IDF soldiers or Israeli citizens face regularly. A group of 15-20 children from the town were walking around the site and began to throw rocks at us. It was irritating and made us understand how such a silly activity could lead to bloodshed. Rimon called the ticket agent who quickly dispersed the group.

We ate a great meal on site in a restaurant that has had little business because of the slowdown in tourism. Also here was a great store at which I purchased a number of items including Dead Sea lotions, jewelry, and a chess game for Michael.

One of the men working here was a Brazilian man named Naim. We visited for sometime. I introduced him to Don Harris who is a missionary to Brazil and speaks Portuguese fluently. I really enjoyed meeting this man and trust that he will come to know the Lord.

Tuesday, January 6, 2004

We have been in Israel a week now and have seen so much. The days have flown by, but I am starting to get weary. There is so much information to process and try to remember. I miss Brenda and our kids. Like each of the previous mornings, today is a beautiful day. We are heading south to En Gedi, Masada and the Dead Sea.

En Gedi

The south is desert. There is no grass to be seen anywhere it seems. As we drove we got our first glimpses of the Dead Sea. En Gedi like Jericho is an oasis in the middle of barren land. After a short hike up a rocky path, we arrived at the waterfall and pool. The view overlooking the Dead Sea was beautiful and the water must have been refreshing to those who used it in ancient times.

En Gedi is the place where David his from King Saul. The area is pitted with caves making it easy for someone to conceal himself. While we were here, Ed read to us from Psalm 57.

Masada

The most visited site in all Israel is the hill known as Masada. Originally built by Herod, Masada was intended to be a refuge from himself and his family. Here Herod built huge palaces and a completely functioning city. Herod overcame the problem of water supply by cutting out of the bedrock massive water cisterns to hold fresh water.

Near the end of the Jewish revolt in A.D. 66, a group of 967 fled to Masada to escape the rampaging armies of Flavius Silva. Silva’s army lay siege upon the city and began construction of a siege ramp. When you look down from Masada, this ramp is more than impressive. To think that a human hand at some point touched every stone is mind-boggling. After months of building, Silva’s army breached the walled and entered the city only to find that all but a few women and children had committed suicide.

Climbing the summit on the east, a trip that takes approximately two hours; riding the cable car to the top; or climbing the siege ramp on the west can make access to the top of Masada.

Qumran

For those who hold the verbal, plenary inspiration of the Bible, the discovery at Qumran is a glorious find. Here the “Dead Sea Scrolls” were discovered in the late 1940’s. A Jewish sect called the Essenes lived and studied at this locale for the better part of two centuries. A major part of their work was the meticulous copying of manuscripts both secular and sacred. The ancient scriptorium (writing room) reveals the place where the scribes did their copying work. The scrolls have been in tact since the time of Christ and have yielded a significant part of the Old Testament, including the entire book of Isaiah.

Looking from a vantage point across a small valley, we saw numerous caves that held that jars which contained the ancient manuscripts. We tossed around an interesting discussion as to whether more manuscripts might be buried in the area or if the Lord has in some other place ancient documents waiting to be revealed should He choose to do so.

Dead Sea

Toward the end of the day, we headed to the Dead Sea. Previously, Rimon told us that we would not be able to go into the Dead Sea. He told us that the IDF had restricted access. We had learned by this point that Rimon was resourceful enough to get us access to anything we wanted. We whined, and he made a few phone calls and sure enough, we headed toward the Dead Sea.

We entered a gate that led to a once popular recreation site, now appearing almost abandoned. It may have been that we were the only people to be on the whole Dead Sea at that time. It is an incredible experience to “swim” in the Dead Sea. You need only the slightest amount of water to be buoyant; 6” may do it. This was great!

Jericho Road Monastery

Returning to Jerusalem, we turned and drove a portion of the Jericho Road. The road ends rather abruptly because of the IDF blockade. We left the van and walked the ridge that overlooks the valley. On the opposite side of the ridge is a Catholic monastery literally hanging on the side of the cliff wall. We watched the sun set before returning to the van. We wished we could have gone to the monastery to talk with the priests who lived there. Their isolation from the world is something we could not imagine.

Dinner in Bethany

Rimon took us to dinner at his favorite restaurant in his town of Bethany. The meal and fellowship were great. As a special treat, we went to Rimon’s home for dessert and met his wife and children. I am convinced as much as ever that the Lord is pursuing this man. I pray he will trust the Lord soon.

We returned to our Jerusalem condominium after a very long day.

Wednesday, January 7, 2004

The weather changed from the days already passed. We awoke to partly cloudy skies, cool temperatures and a strong wind.

Hezekiah’s Tunnel

When we were in Jerusalem last week, we went down Warrens’ Shaft into Hezekiah’s tunnel. None of us were dressed to walk through, so we returned today for the purpose walking through the tunnel.

Built by Hezekiah’s engineers during his reign, the tunnel flows from its source outside the city gate through the solid bedrock into the Pool of Shiloam. This was a highlight of our trip as the men who went through sang together and explored this magnificent engineering feat.

Caiaphas’ Palace

The ruins of the palace believed to belong to the first century high priest of Israel make for a most emotional visit. Here are the stairs that the Lord would have ascended going to the palace to face trial and eventual scourging. In the basement of the building is believed to be the place where prisoners were beaten. This was a very moving experience emotionally.

Rabbinic Tunnel

The rain poured on us the rest of the day. We tried to do things indoors to stay dry but to little avail. By the end of the day, I was soaked.

The Western Wall Tunnels or Rabbinic Tunnel goes along the ancient west wall of the temple mount. We moved quickly through this area. Some interesting sites were the 500-ton stone, the Jewish man praying at the spot believed to be near the Holy of Holies, and the street from the 1^st century A.D.

Via Delarosa

We made our way along this route believed to be taken by Jesus as He went to Calvary. The church of the Holy Sepulcher is the traditional site for both the crucifixion and burial. There is strong tradition for this site as the place for these two events.

Gordon’s Calvary

A very kind Christian group of people act as caretakers for Gordon’s Calvary and the Garden Tomb. Our guide offered convincing arguments as to why this spot could be the site of the crucifixion and burial. While convincing, the same arguments could be made for the Holy Sepulcher.

The burial tomb is a small area cut out from the bedrock. All of us were able to squeeze in at once, but the area was tight. Outside the tomb is a track that would hold a rolling stone. We concluded the day with a brief song service and Scripture reading in a chapel near the garden tomb. Again, I was privileged to lead the singing.

Thursday, January 8, 2004

For the first time, we were able to sleep in a little longer. The weather outside was as miserable as yesterday – cold, windy, and soaking rain.

Temple Mount

We did not think this was going to happen, but indeed it is. We were allowed entrance onto the Temple Mount. While difficult for Rimon to make this happen, I am glad he did. We were not allowed entrance to the Al-Aksa mosque or the Dome of the Rock, but we did walk around the majority of the mount. Rimon pointed out to us Solomon’s chapel, one site believed to be the place for the Holy of Holies. He noted the straight line that goes from the Holy Sepulcher to Solomon’s Chapel to the Eastern Gate to the Garden of Gethsemane and the Mount of Olives.

Pool of Bethesda

The pool is huge, many times larger than the Pool of Shiloam. The church of St. James is on this site. It is an orthodox church. We were in time for a 3:00 PM service complete with hooded priests, a lot of incense, singing, and prayers. It was interesting to say the least.

We walked from here toward the Citadel of David passing by the ruins of Hezekiah’s broad wall and the Beautiful Gate.

Citadel of David

This palace has nothing to do with David, but may be named for the city itself. It provides wonderful views of the Old City and interesting exhibits throughout its museum.

Friday, January 9, 2004

It’s time to go home. Our flight is scheduled to leave shortly before midnight, which leaves one last day to see the city of Jerusalem and the countryside. The morning was cool, but bright sunshine.

Jerusalem Museum

Our primary place to visit today was the Jerusalem Museum. This museum contains a complete history of the Jewish people and the land from the earliest record of history to the present time.

Of interest to me was the fossilized heel bone of a crucified man. The spike was driven through the back of the heel in front of the Achilles tendon and nailed to the side of the post. On site is a replica of Caiaphas’ ossuary. The original was on loan. Also housed here is the Pilate stone found in Caesarea Maritama. A new exhibit is a citizenship contract given to Roman citizen in recognition of 25 years service to the empire. His family and descendents were also included in the citizenship.

We returned to the condominium, cleaned the place, and packed our bags for the trip to the airport.

Valley of Elah

Our final stop was the place where David killed Goliath. It is easy to see how the two armies would have camped on either side of the valley waiting for one to make a move. The Bethlehem hills are clearly seen in the east. The trip for David to go to his brothers would not have been a difficult one. All of us picked up “five smooth stones” from the dry riverbed.

Airport

Unfortunately, our last meal was in the Tel Aviv airport. We (I) had grown so accustomed to these great dinners, I was slightly disappointed to eat pizza, fried rice, french fries, and a mega ice cream bar. Like the United States, security getting out of Israel was far more difficult that getting in. The questions asked by the mostly female security agents made many of us very uncomfortable, but they do their job well.

I was offered a $500 voucher to give up my seat. It meant I would fly out the next day. I was prepared to take the offer, but shortly before departure they put me on board. The flight home was rough due to significant turbulence. We arrive in Newark, NJ a little before 5:00 AM. I passed through customs and quickly boarded the plane for home.

Jet Lag

I suffered no jet lag going to Israel, but struggled for 3-4 days upon arrival at home. Next time I will handle that better.

Sunday, January 18, 2004

Tonight I took the service to share my trip with our church family. I took nearly 800 pictures, eliminated 300 or so that were duplicates or useless, and narrowed the presentation down to 96. The people seemed genuinely pleased to listen and view the sights. I am thrilled I was able to go.